Jacques Fath's Green Water, launched in 1947, evokes a sense of fresh vitality and natural elegance, a fitting choice for its post-war debut. The name "Green Water" itself conjures images of pristine, verdant streams or tranquil pools surrounded by lush foliage. It suggests a refreshing and invigorating experience, akin to the purity and renewal one might find in nature. This term immediately brings to mind the vibrant green of new leaves and the cool, rejuvenating touch of water, resonating with both visual and tactile imagery.
The concept of "Green Water" in fragrance terms translates into a scent that is both crisp and invigorating. The term implies a fragrance characterized by a fresh, green quality combined with the clean, aqueous notes of water. For the 1940s audience, this would be interpreted as a modern, sophisticated choice, reflecting a preference for freshness and vitality in contrast to heavier, more opulent scents that dominated earlier decades.
During this era, the perfume market was evolving rapidly. The end of World War II marked a period of renewal and optimism, influencing both fashion and fragrance. Green Water’s classification as an aromatic hesperidic green floral fragrance for men was innovative. It embraced the crisp, citrus-forward notes typical of hesperidic fragrances while incorporating a green floral heart—a departure from the heavier, more traditional scents prevalent at the time.
The fragrance’s composition, created by Vincent Roubert, would have been a departure from the more opulent and often heavy perfumes of the pre-war years. With its emphasis on fresh green notes and citrus, it aligned with the emerging trends of the late 1940s that favored lighter, more refreshing scents. This made Green Water appealing not only to men but also to women who were drawn to its clean, fresh profile. Its appeal across gender lines highlighted its versatility and the growing trend of unisex fragrances.
In summary, Green Water's name and scent profile captured the essence of a new, post-war sensibility. Its aromatic, green, and floral notes offered a refreshing and modern alternative to the more traditional fragrances of the time, reflecting both the spirit of renewal and the evolving tastes of the post-war era.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? The original vintage version is classified as an aromatic hesperidic green floral fragrance for men.
- Top notes: aldehydes, ginger, basil, mint, grass, lime, mandarin, lemon, mint, bergamot, neroli, verbena
- Middle notes: iris, coriander, geranium, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tarragon, orange blossom, pepper, rosemary, lavender
- Base notes: sandalwood, musk, vetiver, cedar, oakmoss, patchouli, amber
Combat, 1955:
"Green Water by Jacques Fath - scented water, wild mints, citrus fruits, aromatics in revolt against the heat, with a hint of verbena whose small flowers have the icy blue of springs, and the wet smell of flooded meadows, make up the liquid frosts of this olfactory sorbet."
Combat, 1963:
"It appeals to women as much as to men: C'est Green Water, Jacques Fath's eau de toilette. Although it has been studied especially for men, its perfume green, evocative of herbs, plants and the countryside, spiced up with mint and tarragon, with a hint of lemon and bergamot, also appeals to women, especially in summer in the open air."
Scent Profile:
Imagine stepping into a sunlit garden after a fresh morning rain, where each breath is filled with the invigorating essence of nature's bounty. The top notes of the original vintage version of this aromatic hesperidic green floral fragrance transport you instantly to such a place. The aldehydes open the fragrance with a bright, airy sparkle, like the first light of dawn catching dew on the leaves. As this effervescent introduction settles, the crispness of ginger emerges, infusing the air with a zesty warmth, reminiscent of freshly grated root.
Basil and mint follow, their herbal freshness creating a lush, green tapestry that mingles with the invigorating scent of grass. Lime and mandarin lend their citrusy vibrancy, adding a juicy, tangy sweetness that complements the sharp, zesty burst of lemon. Bergamot introduces a subtle, complex citrus note that balances the brightness of the other fruits, while neroli’s delicate, floral bitterness and verbena’s lemony green facets enhance the fragrance’s refreshing and lively character.
As you move deeper into the heart of the fragrance, a complex floral bouquet unfolds. Iris brings a powdery, elegant touch, reminiscent of soft, velvety petals, while coriander adds a spicy, slightly woody undertone that contrasts beautifully with the lushness of geranium. The fragrance then reveals the classic charm of rose and jasmine, their rich, romantic blossoms intertwining with the sweet, heady notes of ylang ylang.
Tarragon adds a unique, slightly anise-like freshness, mingling with the bright, citrusy notes of orange blossom. Pepper introduces a warm, piquant edge, and rosemary’s aromatic green notes provide a grounding, herbal complexity. Lavender concludes the heart with its soothing, herbaceous quality, adding a calming, fragrant softness.
The base notes offer a deep, resonant finish, echoing the fragrance’s initial freshness with a sensual, woody warmth. Sandalwood wraps around you with its creamy, milky softness, while musk introduces a subtle, animalic richness that lingers on the skin.
Vetiver contributes an earthy, smoky depth that grounds the fragrance with its rugged, forest-like quality. Cedar adds a sharp, clean woodiness, and oakmoss enhances the fragrance with its rich, green, and slightly damp earthiness. Patchouli brings an earthy, spicy undertone that blends seamlessly with the amber's warm, resinous glow, creating a luxurious, enduring finish.
This fragrance, with its complex interplay of fresh greens, zesty citrus, rich florals, and deep, woody base notes, evokes a sense of timeless elegance and sophisticated freshness, capturing the essence of a vibrant, sun-drenched garden.
In 1960, Green Water was distributed in the United Kingdom by FR Cullingfords, Ltd.
Product Line:
Eau de Toilette: The original Eau de Toilette for Green Water is a classic representation of mid-20th century sophistication and freshness. Encased in a clear glass bottle that reflects the simplicity and elegance of its time, the Eau de Toilette offers a lighter concentration of the fragrance, making it perfect for daily wear. This bottle has a yellow label and is packaged in a yellow box. It was first available as a narrow, rectangular bottle fitted with a black glass stopper molded with the Jacques Fath crest. This design was updated with a black plastic screw cap for travel, this edition is known as "Eau de Toilette Givree". The bottle’s design is understated yet refined, typically featuring clean lines and a minimalist cap, embodying the timeless elegance of the era. Its formulation captures the aromatic hesperidic green floral essence, presenting a fresh and invigorating scent profile that combines citrus zest with herbal undertones and subtle floral notes. The result is a fragrance that feels both crisp and effortlessly stylish, ideal for those who appreciate a nuanced yet refreshing scent.
The 1957 ad above reads "Women and men use Green Water the toilet water givree by Jacques Fath. Your lips will be dressed by Jacques Fath who pairs them with his two new shades Genevieve and Claude."
The bottle shown in the ad above and in the photos below is a transitional piece, reflecting a shift in design while retaining some elements of its predecessor. The overall shape of the bottle and the placement of the label indicate a move toward a more modern style, characteristic of the next phase in the brand's evolution. Notice the suede like texture of the label.
However, the name on the label remains in the original font, creating a juxtaposition between the old and new. This blend of features suggests that the bottle was produced during a period when the design was evolving from the older to the newer aesthetic. This type of transitional design is often seen when manufacturers gradually update their packaging to maintain brand recognition while introducing new elements.
The suede-like finish on the label was replaced with a more contemporary green paper label, signaling a shift in the brand's aesthetic. This change was accompanied by an updated font, reflecting the brand's new direction and modernized look. The transition from the textured suede-like label to the sleek green paper not only refreshed the bottle's appearance but also aligned with the evolving design trends of the period.
The Eau de Toilette was available in various sizes in the clear glass rectangular bottle. The largest are the 8 oz and the 15.5 oz sizes.
By 1960, Green Water was available in a sophisticated new form: Parfum de Toilette, packaged in a metered aerosol spray within an aluminum canister. This modern packaging innovation featured a distinctive green suedette finish, lending the canister an air of luxury and tactile elegance. The sleek design was complemented by a gold cap and label, which added a refined touch to the overall presentation. This stylish update reflected the period's penchant for both practical and aesthetically pleasing product designs.
However, by 1962, Green Water faced a temporary withdrawal from the market. The fragrance was pulled from the shelves, marking a pause in its availability. This discontinuation was part of a broader industry trend during that era, where brands often reassessed their product lines and packaging strategies in response to shifting consumer preferences and market dynamics. The pause in Green Water’s availability was a brief interlude in its storied history, reflecting the fluid nature of the fragrance industry in the early 1960s.
I have to address a knockoff fragrance that borrowed the look of Green Water down to the packaging and label style. This vintage knockoff, from the 1960s is called Green Jade Water by St. Jacques, distributed by Ravel. Ravel notoriously created various knockoffs of popular fragrances in the 1950s and 1960s.
1967 Version:
Originally launched in 1947, Green Water underwent a significant transformation in 1967, when it was reformulated and repackaged under the auspices of L'Oréal. This updated version preserved the essential character of the original fragrance while introducing refined elements to meet contemporary trends. The 1967 reformulation maintained Green Water’s aromatic hesperidic green floral profile but enhanced its freshness and sophistication with modern ingredients.
The new formulation featured a vibrant top note of citrus, combining the zesty brightness of bergamot, the sharpness of lemon, and the subtle sweetness of neroli. These citrus elements provided an invigorating and refreshing introduction. Beneath this lively citrus layer, the fragrance revealed a base note of aromatic herbs, including tarragon, rosemary, and a peppery English mint. This herbaceous blend imparted a crisp, clean, and bracing quality, evoking images of lush, faraway islands. The 1967 Green Water was celebrated for its fresh, vibrant scent, capturing the essence of both tradition and modernity.
- Top notes: petitgrain, lemon, peppermint, bergamot and orange
- Middle notes: clary sage, lavender, rose and basil
- Base notes: musk and tonka bean
The 1967 version of Green Water opens with an invigorating burst of citrus that dances across the senses. Petitgrain introduces itself with a crisp, slightly woody and citrusy aroma, reminiscent of a verdant orchard. This is soon followed by the bright, zesty spark of lemon, which adds a sharp, tangy freshness that cuts through the air like a ray of sunlight. Bergamot, with its sweet and slightly spicy citrus essence, layers in a complex depth, while the refreshing coolness of peppermint brings a lively, minty chill. The orange note adds a juicy, tangy sweetness that rounds out the top notes, creating a vibrant and refreshing introduction to the fragrance.
As the initial citrus exuberance settles, the heart of the fragrance reveals a harmonious blend of aromatic herbs. Clary sage offers a warm, slightly herbal scent with subtle earthy undertones, providing a sophisticated contrast to the earlier citrus notes. Lavender infuses a calming, floral sweetness, its soothing aroma evoking images of sunlit fields and tranquil gardens. The addition of rose introduces a soft, romantic floral element, its delicate, sweet fragrance merging seamlessly with the aromatic basil, which contributes a slightly spicy, herbaceous quality. This blend of herbs and florals creates a nuanced middle stage that is both fresh and elegant, capturing a sense of refined sophistication.
The base notes of the 1967 Green Water bring a grounding warmth to the fragrance. Musk envelops the scent in a soft, sensual embrace, its subtle, animalic quality adding depth and allure. Tonka bean contributes a rich, sweet, and slightly creamy essence, enhancing the fragrance's warmth and complexity. This base creates a smooth, lingering finish that balances the bright and fresh top notes with a touch of understated elegance. Together, these elements craft a scent that is both vibrant and sophisticated, reflecting the spirit of the era with a blend of traditional charm and modern freshness.
The green glass Eau de Toilette bottles for Green Water, produced in France by Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, exemplified a refined evolution in design. The bottles from this period showcased an elegant simplicity, enhancing the classic appeal of the Green Water line. Reflecting a timeless charm, the updated design featured clean lines and a minimalist aesthetic that echoed the sophistication of the fragrance itself. This understated elegance not only highlighted the fresh and invigorating character of Green Water but also ensured that the bottle became a stylish and enduring symbol of the perfume’s legacy.
In 1967, the Green Water line underwent a notable transformation, marked by the discontinuation of the Parfum Toilette. This shift paved the way for the introduction of a newly reformulated Eau de Toilette, which retained the essence of the classic fragrance while embracing modern updates. Alongside this refreshed Eau de Toilette, the product range expanded with several new offerings, including a Cologne, a sophisticated Cologne Spray Deluxe, an invigorating After Shave Lotion, and a luxurious After Shave Mousse. These additions not only broadened the appeal of Green Water but also provided a comprehensive selection of grooming products, each designed to complement and enhance the signature scent. The 1967 updates ensured that Green Water remained at the forefront of fragrance innovation while maintaining its distinctive charm.
Green Water Cologne: In the evolution of the Green Water line, the Cologne represents a more concentrated, yet still accessible version of the fragrance. Often housed in a similarly elegant bottle but with a slightly more robust design compared to the Eau de Toilette, the Green Water Cologne amplifies the aromatic and citrus notes. This version maintains the core essence of the original, with a stronger emphasis on the fresh, green, and floral aspects. The Cologne’s packaging may feature a distinctive label or a slightly darker hue, reflecting its richer scent profile. It’s designed for those who seek a more pronounced olfactory experience without venturing into the full intensity of a perfume.
Spray Cologne Deluxe: The Spray Cologne Deluxe introduced in 1967 appears to have been a sophisticated reimagining of the classic Parfum de Toilette, I am not sure if it was available in a modern aerosol or natural spray format. In any case, this new iteration aimed to offer the same refined fragrance experience as its predecessor while adapting to contemporary preferences for convenience and ease of application. The Spray Cologne Deluxe maintained the essence of the original scent but delivered it in a more user-friendly form, allowing for a refined and effortless fragrance experience. This update reflected the evolving trends in fragrance delivery systems and catered to an audience seeking both elegance and practicality in their grooming rituals.
After Shave Lotion: The After Shave lotion from the Green Water line serves as both a finishing touch to a grooming routine and an extension of the fragrance experience. Packaged in a sleek bottle that echoes the design language of the Eau de Toilette, it is formulated to soothe and refresh the skin post-shave. Infused with the signature Green Water scent, the After Shave provides a burst of the fragrance’s characteristic freshness while delivering a gentle, moisturizing effect. Its formulation is designed to calm the skin, reduce irritation, and leave a subtle, lingering scent that complements the Eau de Toilette or Cologne, enhancing the overall fragrance experience.
After Shave Mousse: The After Shave Mousse introduces a unique texture to the Green Water product line, combining the refreshing scent of the fragrance with a luxurious, foamy application. Presented in a canister with a modern, streamlined design, the mousse is ideal for those who prefer a richer, more indulgent post-shave experience. Upon application, the mousse transforms into a light, airy foam which turns to liquid on contact that not only soothes and hydrates the skin but also envelops it in a veil of the Green Water fragrance. The mousse’s formulation helps to calm and nourish the skin while leaving a soft, enduring scent that enhances the freshness of the fragrance and provides a lasting, sensuous finish.
By 1969, Green Water expanded its product range to include deodorant options available in both stick and spray forms, catering to a variety of personal care preferences. This move marked a significant step in providing a comprehensive grooming solution for consumers, offering them an effective way to stay fresh and fragrant throughout the day.
In 1971, the line further evolved with the introduction of a spray version of the Eau de Toilette. This new format provided a modern, convenient alternative to traditional splash bottles, allowing users to effortlessly apply their favorite fragrance with a fine mist that ensured even coverage and a refined scent experience. The spray Eau de Toilette continued to build on Green Water's reputation for sophistication and freshness, aligning with the era’s emphasis on both elegance and practicality in personal grooming.
During this period, is when the "Eau de Toilette Hyper Concentree," offering a more intense version of the fragrance, was added to the Green Water line. This concentrated formula was available in both splash and spray formats, catering to different preferences. A key detail to note is the gold banding on the packaging, which specifically signifies the "concentree" version, distinguishing it from the standard eau de toilette. This design element not only highlighted the enhanced concentration of the fragrance but also added a touch of luxury to the overall presentation.
Each product in the Green Water line reflects a commitment to elegance and sophistication, capturing the essence of the original fragrance while catering to different aspects of personal care and scent enjoyment.
1988 US Reintroduction:
By 1978, the Green Water fragrance, still beloved for its well-balanced blend of citrus, green, and floral notes, remained available in the United States. Its scent continued to offer a refreshed yet familiar olfactory experience, capturing the essence of its original charm. However, in 1988, Guy Greengard, owner of the esteemed Mr. Guy boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, spearheaded a notable revival of Green Water. His efforts extended to relaunching the fragrance at Barney's New York, with a plan for limited distribution in select major cities.
Greengard was adamant about the superior quality of Green Water, asserting that it was "far superior" to other men's fragrances and "can't be knocked off." His successful negotiations with L'Oréal secured exclusive distribution rights for the fragrance in the United States. The relaunch brought back the iconic scent in its original green glass bottle from the 1967 relaunch, with a 125ml Eau de Toilette priced at $45 and a larger size at $75. The aftershave was available for $35.
This rejuvenated version maintained its dry, citrusy, and astringent profile, featuring invigorating top notes from the peels of bergamot, lemon, and mandarin, softened by the delicate neroli, an oil distilled from orange blossoms. The base of the fragrance was enriched with a blend of natural herbal ingredients, including tarragon, verbena, rosemary, and peppermint. Together, these elements evoked the essence of a fresh Mediterranean morning, capturing the spirit of Green Water's timeless elegance.
1993 Version:
In 1993, Green Water was again reimagined through a reformulation by André Girodroux, who modernized the fragrance with contemporary ingredients to cater to the evolving tastes of the era. This new iteration sought to rejuvenate the classic scent while integrating modern olfactory trends and advancements in fragrance technology.
The 1993 version introduced updated elements that enhanced the fragrance's complexity and longevity, ensuring it resonated with both long-time fans and a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts. The relaunch maintained the core identity of Green Water but with a refreshed composition that reflected the sophisticated and dynamic nature of the 1990s.
- Top notes: lime, green notes, petitgrain, basil, lemon, bergamot, carrot, mandarin orange, caraway and tangerine
- Middle notes: ginger, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley
- Base notes: oakmoss, musk and amber.
The 1993 reimagining of Green Water introduces an invigoratingly fresh and sophisticated olfactory experience, beginning with its lively top notes. Lime bursts forth with a sharp, tangy zing, immediately awakening the senses with its bright and citrusy vibrancy. This initial freshness is harmoniously complemented by green notes, evoking the lush, verdant aroma of freshly cut grass or a thriving garden. Petitgrain adds an aromatic complexity with its slightly woody and citrusy nuance, enhancing the fragrance's crispness. Basil imparts a herbaceous, slightly spicy aroma that adds a layer of depth, while the zesty lemon and bergamot amplify the citrusy brightness, each contributing their distinct tang and freshness. Carrot introduces an unexpected, subtly sweet earthiness, blending seamlessly with the juicy sweetness of mandarin orange. Tangerine further enriches this citrus medley with its sweet, tangy essence, while caraway provides a hint of spiced warmth, infusing the fragrance with a subtle, aromatic complexity.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a refined floral bouquet. Ginger adds a warm, spicy nuance, its invigorating heat mingling effortlessly with the soft, dewy aroma of jasmine. This floral elegance is enhanced by lily-of-the-valley, which contributes a delicate, fresh, and slightly green floral note, reminiscent of springtime blooms and morning dew.
The base notes anchor the composition with a sophisticated and enduring finish. Oakmoss delivers a rich, earthy depth, evoking the sensation of wandering through a sun-dappled forest floor with its mossy and slightly woody aroma. Musk lends a sensual warmth, its smooth, enveloping quality blending harmoniously with the rich, golden sweetness of amber. This combination creates a base that is both grounding and luxurious, ensuring that the fragrance lingers with a sophisticated elegance that captures the essence of the 1990s while honoring the classic spirit of Green Water.
In 1993, the Green Water bottle had received a modern update, reflecting the design sensibilities of the period. The new version featured a frosted glass flask shape with a distinctive cap, capturing a sleek and contemporary look. This frosted finish, however, was not a permanent fixture; later bottles transitioned away from this style.
In 1996, Green Water was offered in two distinct formats: a 4.16 oz Eau de Toilette Spray priced at $58 and a 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash retailing for $40. These options were available at upscale retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom, as well as other prominent department stores. The updated packaging and pricing continued to offer the classic fragrance experience, maintaining its appeal through evolving design and distribution strategies.
2015 Version:
In 2015, Green Water underwent a significant transformation as it was completely reformulated with contemporary ingredients by renowned perfumer Cécile Zarokian. This revitalized version was introduced as part of the "Fath's Essentials" collection.
The new Green Water was presented in a strikingly different packaging design: clear, cylindrical glass bottles. This modern presentation marked a departure from the earlier incarnations of Green Water, reflecting a sleek and minimalist aesthetic that aligned with current design trends. The updated bottle design complemented the fresh and contemporary formulation, emphasizing clarity and sophistication. This reformulated version aimed to honor the legacy of Green Water while embracing the innovations of modern perfumery.
- Top notes: bergamot, neroli, lemon, orange and mandarin orange
- Middle notes: mint, basil, tarragon, clove and caraway
- Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, musk and ambergris
The 2015 version of Green Water unfurls with a vibrant burst of citrus, awakening the senses with its invigorating top notes. The zesty bergamot leads the symphony, its bright, tangy essence mingling seamlessly with the sharp freshness of neroli. This is complemented by the lively citrus notes of lemon and orange, which add a sunny, effervescent quality. Mandarin orange joins the ensemble, infusing the fragrance with a subtly sweet and juicy aroma that dances lightly on the skin.
As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a sophisticated herbal bouquet. The cool, crisp scent of mint provides an invigorating sensation, its freshness enhanced by the aromatic warmth of basil. Tarragon adds an intriguing hint of anise-like spice, while clove introduces a rich, warm undertone with its slightly sweet, aromatic edge. Caraway brings a subtle earthy nuance, rounding out the middle notes with a complex, yet harmonious blend.
The base notes anchor the composition with a deep, resonant foundation. Oakmoss delivers a forest-like richness, its earthy and woody aroma evoking the feeling of a walk through a lush, shaded glade. Vetiver adds an earthy, smoky quality, enhancing the fragrance’s depth with its robust, slightly woody scent. Musk introduces a warm, sensual element, its smooth and animalic characteristics blending seamlessly with ambergris, which imparts a rare, exotic sweetness reminiscent of sun-warmed sea air. Together, these base notes create a lasting, sophisticated finish that lingers with an air of refined elegance.
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