Jacques Fath wanted to bring back the mythical Iris Gris in all it's glory so they launched a special nine month campaign extended to international perfumers. Under the supervision of Parfums Jacques Fath Creative Director Rania Naim, five perfumers around the world presented their best versions which they based on the recomposed sample of Iris Gris from Jean Kerleo's Osmotheque, The International Conservatory of Perfume, as well as vintage examples. A committee of experts, including Luca Turin, had chosen the blend masterfully composed by Patrice Revillard, Perfumer and Yohan Cervi, Creative Director of Maelström.
Patrice Revillard and Yohan Cervi explained the process: "We worked on this project for almost a year, doing many back and forth trips. First, we gathered our knowledge about the perfumery of that time, the basics and ingredients frequently used, the way of formulating, the search for textures etc... We had also a certain knowledge of Fath's Iris Gris and Vincent Roubert's work. To formulate the perfume, we summarized all this data, and smelled the different vintage perfumes that were at our disposal, including the beautiful re-composition of the Osmothèque, made by Master Perfumer Jean Kerléo.
Each version, each sample was different and we had to memorize the best in each. The most crucial
was to obtain the same curve of evolution as in the original fragrance and preserve same sensations
and emotions, using as many ingredients of that time as possible. All this was achieved by using our knowledge, our noses, without direct access to the formula, only for one purpose: to be able to admire and smell again this masterpiece that was thought to be lost, proportioned in noble ingredients at a breathtaking level.
The main components used in the original version were preserved as they shape the complexity and
fullness of L’Iris de Fath. No compromise on the dosage nor on the quality could therefore be
accepted. At the same time, we had to take different paths from those undertaken by Vincent
Roubert to achieve the same effects and to provoke the same emotions.”
No expense was spared as only the finest of ingredients could be used to resurrect the complex beauty of Iris Gris. By using the absolutes of iris, jasmine, carnation, oakmoss and two different types of rose as well as precious orris butter, the most perfect marriage of odors delivered its promise of remaining faithful to the original Iris Gris composition. The new interpretation was christened L'Iris de Fath and was launched to the public in 2018.
Luca Turin stated “What made Maelstrom’s L’Iris de Fath special was that it seemed to magically put together all the different facets of the —very different— samples of Jacques Fath’s Iris Gris we had
available. Naturally, their submission smelled wonderfully of the Iris, but more importantly it had that extra message of style and refinement which made Jacques Fath’s Iris Gris unique and far more than a mere “iris fragrance”.
Iris Gris is hailed by many perfumistas as the "holy grail" of perfume, and any bottles no matter how empty, that come up for sale, always command a high price. Some buyers are those who originally wore the discontinued fragrance during the 1940s and 1950s, others are those who, intrigued by perfume bloggers, yearn to experience the greatness that truly is Iris Gris, and then there are those who wish to recreate the fragrance themselves.
Vincent Roubert, the original composer of Iris Gris in 1947, had overdosed an unprecedented level of iris, sad to be 30% iris (absolute, concrete, and synthetic), which made it one of the most expensive perfumes of it's day, especially in terms of manufacture. It takes one ton of orris root to produce one kilo of orris butter. The orris root is the root of the bearded iris flower, one of the most magnificent species in terms of showiness and beauty. Jacques Fath explains that "orris butter is a rare and expensive ingredient obtained by steam distillation of Iris roots. It has a soft, slightly sweet and warm smell, reminiscent of violet flower with woody variations."
I have a special appreciation for the bearded iris. My family has been planting these in their private gardens for decades. Family lore states that our original bearded iris bulbs came all the way from Sweden to America around the 1870s when members of my maternal grandmother brought them over and planted them in Minnesota. Members moved across the country and into Washington state, each member taking a few bulbs with them and transplanting them wherever they moved. My grandmother brought them to New Jersey and gave some to my mother, who ended up planting them and digging them back up everywhere she moved. These plants are still happily blooming in the garden of my parent's home.
L’Iris de Fath, is classified as a woody floral fragrance for women. The perfume opens with a fresh citrusy top of neroli, bergamot and petitgrain, followed by a sparkling peach facet. The heart is composed of powdery iris and orris butter enveloped with jasmine, precious roses and sweet violet, punctuated with spicy carnation and a green trace of violet leaf. Resting on a warm base of sandalwood, earthy oakmoss and vetiver round out the woodsy foundation layered over subtly animalic musks.
- Top notes: neroli, petit-grain, bergamot, peach
- Middle notes: iris absolute, orris butter, Grasse jasmine absolute, Turkish rose absolute, violet flower, violet leaf, carnation absolute
- Base notes: oak moss absolute, sandalwood, Bourbon vetiver, musks
The perfume is contained inside of a crystal flacon which resembles the original one used by Fath. It's tall spire like stopper features a dauber so that you can elegantly apply the fragrance to the skin.
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