Fath de Fath by Jacques Fath c1953

Fath de Fath, created by Jacques Bersia, and launched by Jacques Fath in 1953, carries a name imbued with both personal and sophisticated connotations. The phrase "Fath de Fath" essentially translates to "Fath's Essence" or "Fath's Own" in French, attributing the fragrance directly to its creator, Jacques Fath. This naming choice reflects a sense of personal imprint and intimate connection to the fragrance, positioning it as a direct extension of Fath’s own refined taste and style. The repetition of "Fath" emphasizes the exclusivity and personal nature of the scent, suggesting a perfume that is both uniquely and intimately tied to the designer's identity.

The term "Fath de Fath" evokes images of elegance and sophistication, with a touch of French allure. It conjures a sense of luxury and refinement, suggesting a fragrance that is both classic and deeply personal. This sentiment is mirrored in the perfume's composition, which features a delicate yet complex blend of floral and oriental notes. The name implies a scent that is not only a reflection of Fath's artistry but also an embodiment of timeless elegance.

In terms of scent, Fath de Fath can be interpreted as a sophisticated interplay of light and depth. The fragrance opens with a bright, aldehydic sparkle that introduces a refreshing, clean facet. This is followed by a dominant floral heart, where rose and jasmine are prominently featured, offering a rich and romantic bouquet. The chypre base adds a layer of depth and complexity, characterized by the earthy and woody notes of vetiver and citron bark. The muted symphony of additional notes—tea, violet, cedar, gardenia, alpine mosses, and precious woods—creates a harmonious and nuanced composition, evoking a sense of quiet luxury and understated elegance.

Women of the early 1950s would have related to Fath de Fath as a symbol of sophistication and modernity. The 1950s perfume landscape was marked by a preference for complex and refined fragrances, often with a blend of floral and oriental elements. Fath de Fath aligns with these trends while offering a distinctive twist with its prominent rose and jasmine notes, supported by a chypre base that provides both freshness and depth. Its light yet rich character would have appealed to women seeking a fragrance that was both modern and timeless, capturing the essence of post-war elegance with a touch of personal distinction.

Overall, Fath de Fath stands out as a reflection of Jacques Bersia’s craftsmanship and the sophisticated fragrance trends of the 1950s. Its blend of aldehydic freshness, floral richness, and chypre depth makes it a quintessential example of mid-century elegance, appealing to those who appreciated a scent that was both refined and deeply evocative.

Fath de Fath was offered in a selection of elegantly crafted formats, each designed to cater to different preferences and needs.

The 14ml Parfum, the most concentrated form of the fragrance, embodied pure opulence. Encased in a small, exquisite bottle, this parfum represented the essence of luxury in its most potent form. The rich and intense concentration allowed for a long-lasting and impactful presence, ideal for special occasions where a touch of sophistication was desired.

For those who preferred a lighter, yet still refined experience, the 120ml Eau de Toilette Spray provided a convenient and modern option. This format combined the sophistication of the fragrance with a practical application, allowing users to easily refresh their scent throughout the day. The spray mechanism ensured an even distribution, enhancing the perfume’s allure with each application.

The 125ml Eau de Toilette, available in a classic bottle design, offered a substantial amount of the fragrance in a more traditional format. This size was perfect for daily use, providing a generous supply of the scent to enjoy regularly. The Eau de Toilette format delivered the fragrance’s essence with a lighter intensity compared to the parfum, making it suitable for both day and evening wear.

Together, these products catered to various needs and preferences, from the concentrated and luxurious parfum to the practical and accessible Eau de Toilette Spray and classic Eau de Toilette. Each format allowed aficionados to experience Fath de Fath in a way that best suited their lifestyle, maintaining the perfume’s reputation for elegance and sophistication across different applications.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light, aldehydic floral oriental perfume for women with a dominant rose and jasmine facet resting on a chypre base. Two sharp notes of vetiver and citron bark dominate a muted symphony where we recognize tea, rose, jasmine, violet, cedar, gardenia, alpine mosses and precious woods.

• Top notes: aldehydes, gorse, ginger, cascarilla, coriander, citron, bergamot, lemon, heliotrope, orange and green notes
• Middle notes: exotic pepper, tea, iris, Bulgarian rose, gardenia, Grasse jasmine, lilac, Grasse may rose, ylang ylang, carnation, tuberose, violet, orange blossom and lily-of-the-valley 
• Base notes: whitebeam, civet, blond tobacco, spruce, blackthorn, leather, orris, vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood, ambergris, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, vanilla, cedar and benzoin

Fath de Fath, launched in 1953, made a distinctive impression on the perfume world with its evocative and multifaceted character. Described in Combat (1954) as possessing a unique scent profile, Fath de Fath is likened to the closed, intimate spaces of literary characters such as Des Esseintes and Renée Vivien. The fragrance captures the essence of a secluded garden with the sharp, invigorating notes of citron bark and vetiver. This dynamic blend is complemented by the acrid undertone of tea, which nuances a rich bouquet of rose, violet, jasmine, and bark. The result is a scent that suggests both the freshness of nature and the complexity of a finely tuned perfume.

Combat, 1954:

"Eau de Fath de Fath: Des Esseintes' room, like that of Renée Vivien, so closed that it would have been on the spells of nature, must have thus had the smell of the fine flower of the twigs of the hedge: the network of spruce, blackthorn and gorse. Two sharp notes emerge from it: citron bark and vetiver, while an acrid smell of tea nuances a mixture of rose, violet, jasmine and bark."

By 1955, Combat described the fragrance in its Eau de Cologne form, noting its surprisingly successful blend of scents that evoke both intimacy and the outdoors. The Eau de Cologne's scent profile recreates the atmosphere of aristocratic retreats, where the mingling aromas of tea, cedar, rose, gardenia, lemons, and violets blend seamlessly with the carnal smell of fine leather. This olfactory tapestry captures the essence of opulent, secluded environments, where the echoes of luxury linger in the air, creating a richly layered sensory experience.

Combat, 1955:

"Fath de Fath in the dilution of eau de cologne - surprisingly successful dosage of scents evocative of intimacy and particular aromas of the outdoors. Man can dare such a perfume. It recreates the atmosphere of these camps of aristocrats in exile, where hermetic paintings, whispering voices, gloves, whiskey, playing cards, and the indefinable smell of tea, cedar, rose, gardenia, lemons and violets linger faded, mingled with the carnal smell of luxurious fine leather suitcases."

Together, these descriptions paint a vivid picture of Fath de Fath as a perfume that transcends mere fragrance to evoke a sense of aristocratic intimacy and natural beauty. Its composition and presentation reflect a careful balance of sophistication and sensory allure, making it a standout choice in the world of mid-century perfumes.

Scent Profile:

The original vintage Fath de Fath envelops you in a delicate, yet intricately layered olfactory experience, classified as a light, aldehydic floral oriental perfume. At the outset, a burst of aldehydes introduces a bright and effervescent quality, mingling with the invigorating scents of gorse and ginger. 

The sharp, zesty note of citron adds a citrusy vibrance, while the herbal warmth of cascarilla and coriander grounds the fragrance. A blend of bergamot and lemon infuses a fresh, tangy brightness, enhanced by the subtle, sweet hints of heliotrope and the crisp green notes that lend an invigorating opening.

As the top notes gently fade, the heart of Fath de Fath reveals itself in a lush and complex bouquet. The exotic pepper introduces a spicy, stimulating edge, which intertwines with the smooth, aromatic scent of tea. This is complemented by the elegance of iris, and the rich, velvety essence of Bulgarian rose. Gardenia and Grasse jasmine add a creamy, floral depth, while lilac and Grasse may rose contribute a nuanced sweetness. 

Ylang ylang and carnation bring a touch of exoticism, while tuberose and violet offer a soft, romantic touch. The fragrance is rounded out by the brightness of orange blossom and the delicate freshness of lily-of-the-valley, creating a rich and multifaceted heart.

In the base, Fath de Fath transitions to a complex, earthy foundation. The creamy sweetness of whitebeam and the musky depth of civet blend seamlessly with the rich, warm scent of blond tobacco. The freshness of spruce and the tangy, rustic aroma of blackthorn add a rugged charm, while the smoothness of leather lends a luxurious touch. 

Orris, with its powdery elegance, blends with the earthy vetiver and the green, woody aroma of oakmoss. The base is further enriched by the opulent scents of sandalwood, ambergris, and tonka bean, with the earthy complexity of patchouli and the sensual warmth of musk. Vanilla and cedar provide a soothing, comforting finish, while benzoin adds a subtle hint of resinous sweetness, completing this sophisticated and harmonious composition.

Bottles:

The L'Art et la Mode (1954) issue further emphasizes the opulence of Fath de Fath, noting its amber liquid glistening within a crystal bottle shaped like a grand solitaire. This description highlights the perfume's luxurious presentation and its status as a symbol of refinement and exclusivity.

L'Art et la mode- Issue 2760, 1954:

"Here are some his new fragrance " Fath de Fath's amber liquid and fragrant, glistening in its crystal bottle shaped like a gigantic solitaire."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fath de Fath, a perfume that captured the essence of 1950s luxury, was discontinued at an unspecified date, though it continued to be available through 1978. Its allure and sophistication, however, inspired a revival years later. In 1994, Mark Buxton and Parfex undertook the task of reformulating this classic fragrance, infusing it with contemporary ingredients while preserving the spirit of the original. This modern reinterpretation was introduced with refreshed packaging, marking a new chapter in the perfume’s storied history.

The relaunch included both Parfum and Eau de Parfum versions, catering to different preferences for fragrance intensity and longevity. The Parfum offered an intense, concentrated experience, maintaining the rich, luxurious character of the original. The Eau de Parfum provided a slightly lighter, yet still sophisticated, option, suitable for everyday wear. This revitalization allowed Fath de Fath to re-enter the market with a blend of timeless elegance and modern sensibility, appealing to both new enthusiasts and those nostalgic for the original scent.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral woody oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, black currant, plum, mandarin orange, cassia, peach, pear, bergamot, lemon, tangerine and green notes
• Middle notes: iris, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, orange blossom, heliotrope and lily-of-the-valley
• Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, ambergris, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, vanilla, cedar and benzoin

L'Événement du jeudi, Issues 626-629, 1996:

"BEAUTY Parfum de fruits. This is the new version of " Fath de Fath 'cologne by Jacques Fath. A cheerful and sophisticated lightweight version, which combines, among other fragrances, tangerine, pear, rose, lily and vanilla."

Scent Profile:

The 1994 reformulated version of Fath de Fath unfolds with a fresh, vibrant introduction that immediately captures the senses. The top notes start with a sparkling burst of aldehydes, their effervescent quality creating an invigorating and luminous opening. This bright, airy introduction is followed by the tangy sweetness of black currant and ripe plum, which lend a juicy, almost succulent quality to the fragrance. 

Mandarin orange and tangerine add a citrusy brightness, their zesty freshness harmonizing with the sweet, nectar-like essence of peach and pear. Bergamot and lemon introduce a crisp, tangy note, while green notes infuse a subtle hint of verdant freshness, evoking the lushness of a sunlit garden.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a rich floral tapestry, seamlessly blending classic and exotic blooms. Iris takes center stage with its elegant, powdery aroma, perfectly complemented by the velvety sweetness of rose and the opulent richness of jasmine. 

Ylang ylang and tuberose contribute their heady, exotic florals, adding depth and sensuality to the composition. Orange blossom offers a soft, sweet floral nuance, while heliotrope introduces a delicate, slightly almond-like sweetness. The fresh, green character of lily-of-the-valley completes the bouquet, infusing the heart with a light, airy quality.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a warm, woody embrace. The earthy richness of vetiver merges with the creamy, luxurious scent of sandalwood, creating a smooth, velvety foundation. Ambergris adds a touch of maritime warmth, while tonka bean provides a subtle sweetness with hints of vanilla and almond. 

Patchouli brings a deep, aromatic earthiness, beautifully balanced by the sensual warmth of musk and the creamy softness of vanilla. Cedar and benzoin round out the base with their woody and resinous qualities, offering a refined and enduring finish to this sophisticated and alluring scent.

Comparison of Bottles & Scent:

In the photo collages below, you’ll find a fascinating comparison between two versions of Fath de Fath, highlighting their distinct yet complementary designs. The original 1950s crystal bottle exudes classic elegance with its timeless craftsmanship. Its stopper is notably short and squat, giving the bottle a robust and traditional appearance. Surrounding the neck of the original bottle, you can see the baudruchage cords—delicate, waxed threads that once served to seal the fragrance, embodying a refined, artisanal touch typical of mid-20th century luxury.

In contrast, the 1994 reformulated version of Fath de Fath showcases a modernized design while retaining the essence of its predecessor. The newer bottle is styled similarly, maintaining the classic silhouette but with contemporary updates. The stopper is elongated and more streamlined compared to the original, reflecting a sleek and modern aesthetic. Instead of the traditional baudruchage cords, the updated bottle features a gilded metal band around its neck, adding a touch of sophistication and a hint of opulence.

Both bottles reflect the era in which they were crafted—each a testament to the design trends and manufacturing techniques of its time. The original’s vintage charm contrasts with the newer bottle’s refined elegance, illustrating the evolution of perfume packaging while honoring the legacy of this iconic fragrance.

Comparing the original 1950s Fath de Fath to its 1994 reformulation reveals an intriguing evolution in scent composition while retaining core elements of its identity. The original perfume, classified as a light, aldehydic floral oriental, opens with a vivid and complex array of top notes. The aldehydes offer a crisp, sparkling introduction, mingling with the fresh, green aroma of gorse and the warm, spicy nuances of ginger and cascarilla. Coriander adds a subtle, herbal depth, while the citron lends a sharp, invigorating burst of citrus. This zesty start is rounded out by the sweet and soft notes of bergamot, lemon, and heliotrope, which create a balanced, multi-dimensional opening.

As you delve into the heart of the original Fath de Fath, the composition unfolds into a rich floral bouquet. Exotic pepper introduces an intriguing spicy kick, complementing the aromatic tea note, which adds a soothing and slightly astringent quality. The heart reveals a complex interplay of Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, and gardenia, enveloped in a lush array of other florals like lilac, May rose, ylang-ylang, carnation, tuberose, violet, orange blossom, and lily-of-the-valley. This opulent blend creates a fragrant tapestry that is both elegant and deeply sensuous.

In the base, the original Fath de Fath offers a profound and captivating finish. The earthy, smoky undertones of whitebeam and spruce merge with the rich, leathery aroma of blond tobacco and blackthorn. The orris root contributes a velvety, powdery softness, while vetiver and oakmoss anchor the scent with their deep, woody and slightly musty nuances. Sandalwood adds a creamy, exotic warmth, complemented by the ambergris's musky sweetness, tonka bean's vanilla-like richness, and patchouli's earthy depth. Vanilla and cedar enhance the base with their smooth, comforting qualities, creating a well-rounded and enduring finish.

The 1994 reformulated version of Fath de Fath presents a notable shift to a fruity floral woody oriental fragrance, highlighting a modern sensibility while preserving its heritage. The top notes now feature a burst of black currant, plum, and mandarin orange, which infuse the fragrance with a juicy, fruity brightness. Cassia, peach, and pear contribute a sweet, succulent richness, while bergamot, lemon, and tangerine add a zesty freshness. The green notes provide a crisp, vibrant edge that transitions smoothly into the heart.

The middle notes in the reformulation retain the essential floral character but with a streamlined bouquet. Iris, rose, and jasmine dominate, showcasing a refined, elegant blend, while ylang-ylang and tuberose offer their characteristic exotic floral depth. Orange blossom and heliotrope continue to lend their soft, sweet facets, and lily-of-the-valley adds a delicate, fresh touch.

In the base, the reformulated version simplifies the complexity of the original while maintaining its richness. Vetiver and sandalwood still provide a woody, grounding effect, complemented by the warm, resinous ambergris and tonka bean. Patchouli, musk, and vanilla offer a smooth, sensual finish, with cedar and benzoin adding subtle, balsamic accents.

While both versions share a core of floral and woody elements, the original 1950s Fath de Fath is distinguished by its intricate blend of spices, herbs, and a broader range of base notes, creating a deeper, more complex fragrance. In contrast, the 1994 reformulation emphasizes a cleaner, more modern interpretation with an updated fruity and floral profile, reflecting evolving tastes while paying homage to the classic charm of its predecessor.