Jacques Fath's choice of the name Ellipse for his 1972 fragrance is intriguing, embodying both elegance and enigma. The word "ellipse" originates from the Greek word "elleipsis," meaning "a falling short" or "omission," but in geometry, it refers to a smooth, elongated curve—an oval shape that represents perfection in imperfection. The name Ellipse suggests a sense of continuity, an endless loop, and a journey that, while not linear, is refined and sophisticated. This concept resonates deeply with the nature of the scent itself, which is both complex and harmonious, reflecting the cyclical, ever-evolving essence of a woman's allure.
The word Ellipse evokes images of fluidity and grace, a seamless blend of curves and angles that captures the essence of movement and femininity. It suggests a sense of mystery and allure, as the shape itself is one that can be seen from many angles, yet never fully grasped in a single glance. This mirrors the multi-faceted nature of the fragrance, which unfolds in layers, revealing different aspects of its character over time. The emotional response to Ellipse is one of intrigue, sophistication, and timeless elegance, qualities that would resonate with the modern, confident woman of the 1970s.
Interpreting Ellipse in scent, one would imagine a fragrance that is both structured and fluid, with each note contributing to a sense of movement and balance. The dry but warm chypre classification suggests a fragrance that is grounded yet inviting, with a dominant leather note that speaks to strength and refinement. The top notes of citrus and aromatic herbs would provide a fresh, invigorating introduction, reminiscent of the clarity and brightness of an ellipse's curve. As the fragrance settles, a complex floral heart of rose, jasmine, tuberose, and carnation would unfold, adding depth and warmth, much like the deeper hues seen within an elliptical shape. The base notes of oakmoss, exotic woods, leather, and musk would anchor the fragrance, providing a rich, earthy finish that lingers like the enduring impact of a well-crafted scent.
In the context of the early 1970s, Ellipse was launched during a time of significant social and cultural change. Women were increasingly asserting their independence and embracing their individuality, and the fashion and fragrance industries were responding to this shift. The era was marked by a return to more natural, earthy scents, moving away from the overly sweet and floral perfumes of previous decades. Ellipse, with its dry, warm chypre composition and dominant leather note, fit perfectly into this trend, offering a sophisticated and modern alternative to the more traditional feminine fragrances on the market.
However, Ellipse was unique in its complexity and balance. While it aligned with the broader trend toward chypre fragrances, it distinguished itself through its nuanced blend of citrus, herbs, florals, and rich base notes. The fragrance embodied the spirit of the time—a mix of tradition and modernity, strength and grace, perfectly capturing the essence of the contemporary woman. For women in the 1970s, a perfume called Ellipse would likely have resonated as a symbol of their own evolving identities—elegant, mysterious, and endlessly intriguing.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a dry, but warm chypre fragrance for women with dominant leather note. Citrus and aromatic herbs, a complex floral with rose, jasmine, tuberose and carnation. A base of oakmoss, exotic woods, leather and musk.
- Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, bergamot, tangerine peel and galbanum
- Middle notes: fresh herbs, vetiver, nutmeg, lavender, tuberose, carnation, jasmine and rose
- Base notes: labdanum, pine, cedar, oakmoss, wormwood, sandalwood, leather, patchouli, amber, tonka bean and musk
Scent Profile:
Inhaling the top notes of Ellipse, you’re first met with the crisp, almost effervescent burst of aldehydes that seem to sparkle in the air, immediately followed by the green notes that add a fresh, dewy quality, reminiscent of morning grass still wet with dew.
Bergamot and tangerine peel lend a citrusy brightness, their zesty, slightly bitter essence lifting your spirits with a sense of invigorating clarity. The inclusion of galbanum introduces a sharp, resinous edge, adding complexity and grounding the brightness with an earthy, slightly herbal undertone that hints at the depth to come.
As the fragrance begins to settle, the middle notes unfold like a rich tapestry of scents. Fresh herbs add an aromatic, slightly medicinal quality that mingles intriguingly with the warmth of vetiver. Nutmeg brings a spicy warmth, its subtle heat intertwining with the soft, powdery sweetness of lavender, creating a heart that is both comforting and intriguing.
The floral notes come into bloom with a lush bouquet—tuberose exudes a creamy, almost narcotic richness, while carnation offers a spicy, clove-like note. Jasmine and rose weave together, their heady, romantic scents enveloping you in a classic floral embrace, yet one that feels vibrant and alive.
As the fragrance evolves, the base notes provide a deep, sensuous foundation. Labdanum and pine introduce a resinous, slightly smoky quality that evokes images of sun-warmed woods. Cedar and oakmoss add a dry, earthy depth, their slightly bitter, forest-like tones grounding the fragrance in a naturalistic embrace.
Wormwood adds a bitter, green sharpness, while sandalwood’s creamy, woody warmth smooths the edges, creating a harmonious balance. The dominant leather note emerges, rich and luxurious, adding a textured, almost tactile dimension to the scent. This leather is not harsh but rather supple and refined, evoking the scent of high-quality leather goods.
Patchouli lends a dark, earthy richness, its slightly sweet, woody scent adding to the fragrance's depth. The warm, sweet nuances of amber and tonka bean add a soft, powdery finish, while musk wraps everything in a subtle, sensual veil, leaving a lingering, unforgettable trail.
In its entirety, Ellipse is a complex, multifaceted fragrance that balances dryness with warmth, floral richness with earthy depth, and a touch of luxurious leather that defines its character. The fragrance is a sensory journey, evolving from bright and fresh to deep and sensual, leaving a lasting impression that is both elegant and enigmatic.
Bottles:
The fragrance was elegantly encased in distinctive bottles crafted by the renowned sculptor Serge Mansau in 1974, a design that elevated the perfume to a work of art in its own right. Mansau, celebrated for his innovative approach to perfume bottle design, infused his sculptural sensibilities into the creation of these bottles, making each one a tactile expression of the fragrance it contained. His design philosophy centered around the interplay of form and light, resulting in bottles that not only housed the scent but also served as a visual and sensory experience.
These bottles were produced in France by the esteemed glass manufacturer Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, known for their expertise in creating high-quality glassware. The collaboration between Mansau and Saint-Gobain Desjonquères ensured that the bottles were not only aesthetically striking but also meticulously crafted, with attention to detail that reflected the luxurious nature of the fragrance. The bottles' unique shapes and elegant lines captured the essence of the perfume inside, serving as a beautiful and functional piece of art that women of the time would have been proud to display on their vanities.
The design by Mansau also spoke to the broader cultural trends of the 1970s, where art and everyday objects began to merge, blurring the lines between utility and beauty. The bottles were more than just containers; they were expressions of modernity, elegance, and the changing tastes of the era. Through these bottles, the fragrance became not just a scent, but a statement—a testament to the art of perfumery and the artistry of its presentation.
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1974, the fragrance Ellipse underwent a significant shift when it was licensed to the Syrian company Kachian Takieddine. This partnership led to the perfume being packaged in distinct navy blue boxes, marked with the statement, "Fabrique en S.A.R. sous licence des PARFUMS JACQUES FATH PARIS par Kachlan Takieddine." This version of Ellipse was reportedly lighter in character, making it more suitable for day wear. The lighter formulation reflected a different approach to the fragrance, likely tailored to the preferences of a new market.
Despite the launch of the Syrian version, the original French version continued to be produced, retaining its classic formulation. These French versions were packaged in elegant white boxes, signaling a difference in both quality and experience. According to various online reviewers, the French-produced Ellipse, encased in white, was noticeably superior. It was richer, longer-lasting, and more aligned with the luxurious standards set by the Jacques Fath brand. In contrast, the Syrian version, while still bearing the prestigious name, was seen as a more diluted interpretation of the original, less complex, and less enduring on the skin.
The dual production of Ellipse in two distinct regions highlights the complexities of brand licensing and the impact it can have on the integrity of a fragrance. By 1984, Ellipse was discontinued, a decision reportedly influenced by disagreements between the partners involved. This marked the end of an era for the fragrance, leaving behind a legacy that was remembered for both its original, potent allure and its later, more subdued incarnation.
Buyer Beware!
Unfortunately, the legacy of Ellipse was tarnished in the 1990s when counterfeit versions of the fragrance began to surface, particularly from Poland. These counterfeit Ellipse perfumes were most commonly found in 25ml Eau de Parfum sprays, housed in white boxes that mimicked the original packaging but lacked the authenticity and quality of the genuine product.
The emergence of these fakes not only disappointed loyal customers who cherished the original fragrance but also muddied the reputation of the brand, as these imitations often fell far short in scent profile and longevity. The presence of these counterfeit products serves as a reminder of the value and integrity of genuine fragrances, underscoring the importance of authenticity in the world of luxury perfumery.
photos used in this post are from: ebay sellers antiklife44 and irinmihalna 
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