Iris Gris by Jacques Fath c1947

Jacques Fath’s fragrance Iris Gris, launched in 1947, is a quintessential example of post-war olfactory elegance. The name Iris Gris translates from French as "Gray Iris," a term that subtly combines the delicate beauty of the iris flower with an evocative, subdued color. This choice of name suggests a refined, understated sophistication, distinguishing the perfume from more overtly named contemporaries.

In the context of the late 1940s, the name Iris Gris would have conjured images of a serene and somewhat enigmatic floral landscape. The iris, a flower associated with both the classic elegance of its purple and the more modern interpretation of gray, symbolizes purity and mystery. The use of "gris" (gray) in the name adds a layer of complexity and modernity, reflecting the post-war yearning for sophistication and a move away from the exuberant excesses of earlier decades.

Iris Gris was created by the renowned perfumer Vincent Roubert and features a floral fruity composition enriched with powdery and woodsy notes. The perfume's sharp, tangy elements lend it a cool and refreshing quality, which would have resonated with women of the time who were emerging from the shadow of wartime austerity into a period of renewed glamour and style.

The late 1940s marked a transitional period in fragrance, where there was a shift from the heavy, opulent perfumes of the 1930s to lighter, more nuanced scents. Iris Gris fits within this trend, offering a fresh and sophisticated take on floral fragrances. Unlike the more dominant chypres and aldehydic florals of the era, Iris Gris stands out with its unique blend of powdery and woodsy undertones, presenting a modern twist that would have appealed to women seeking both elegance and innovation in their fragrance choices.

Overall, Iris Gris encapsulates a moment in time when the fragrance industry was exploring new expressions of femininity and style, blending classic floral elements with a refreshing and contemporary edge.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is described as a floral fruity perfume with woodsy notes. A sharp tang makes this perfume cool and refreshing. 

• Top notes: peach (Persicol), C-14 aldehyde, violet leaf, bergamot, petitgrain, neroli
• Middle notes: orris butter, iris absolute, heliotrope, Grasse jasmine absolute, lilac, Turkish rose absolute, lily of the valley, tuberose, carnation absolute, violet
• Base notes: sandalwood, musk, cedar, Bourbon vetiver, oakmoss absolute

Vincent Roubert’s creation of Iris Gris in 1947 was nothing short of revolutionary, setting a new standard for opulence in perfumery. By incorporating an unprecedented concentration of iris—up to 30% of the composition, including both iris absolute and synthetic iris—Roubert elevated Iris Gris to the pinnacle of luxury. This exceptional use of iris made the fragrance one of the most expensive perfumes of its time, both in terms of production and retail price.

The process of extracting iris is laborious and costly. To produce just one kilogram of orris butter, approximately one ton of orris root is required. The orris root, derived from the bearded iris flower, is renowned for its striking beauty and rich, velvety texture. This root, after being carefully harvested, undergoes a meticulous steam distillation process to yield orris butter, a key ingredient known for its rarity and expense.

Jacques Fath eloquently describes orris butter as "a rare and expensive ingredient obtained by steam distillation of Iris roots." Its fragrance profile is characterized by a soft, slightly sweet warmth that evokes the delicate scent of violet flowers, enriched with subtle woody nuances. The complexity of orris butter imparts a luxurious depth to Iris Gris, contributing to its sophisticated and multi-dimensional scent. The inclusion of such a high proportion of this exquisite ingredient underscores the perfume’s status as a masterpiece of olfactory craftsmanship, reflecting the height of perfumery luxury in the mid-20th century.

In crafting Iris Gris, Vincent Roubert utilized undecalactone, also known as C-14 aldehyde or Periscol, to impart a distinctive peach note that set the fragrance apart. Undecalactone is a key synthetic compound renowned for its ability to emulate the rich, fruity aroma of ripe peaches. Its inclusion in Iris Gris was a masterful choice, adding a fresh and vibrant dimension to the perfume’s overall composition.

Undecalactone brings an unmistakable juiciness to the fragrance, creating a bright, tangy sweetness that resonates with the lushness of a perfectly ripened peach. This synthetic aldehyde introduces a crisp, invigorating quality that balances the more opulent floral and powdery elements of the perfume. The use of Periscol in Iris Gris not only enhances the fruitiness but also contributes to the fragrance’s refreshing and modern character, making it a standout choice in the landscape of 1940s perfumery. By blending this innovative ingredient with traditional floral notes, Roubert achieved a harmonious interplay of freshness and sophistication that defines the enduring allure of Iris Gris.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Iris Gris by Jacques Fath: a real scented 'Iris scarf', it's a rainbow of very delicately flowery scents whose fresh and suave aroma will give you infinite joys."

Combat, 1955:

"It is in the subterranean part of her green sabers that the iris, in a purple coat of crumpled paper, distills her aroma of coquettish ancestor. Traitorously powdering their fragrance, it stands out in particular in Balenciaga's Le Dix, perfume of a healthy goddess and, of course, in Jacques Fath's Iris Gris, which seems to be enough for the sultriness of dancing skirts."

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Iris Gris, your senses are greeted by a vibrant burst of top notes, each contributing to a multi-layered olfactory experience. The peach note, imbued with the rich, juicy essence of undecalactone, unfurls with a luscious, sun-kissed sweetness that instantly captivates. This sweetness is heightened by the aldehyde, which adds a shimmering, almost metallic sharpness, giving the fragrance an invigorating freshness. 

The delicate green facet of violet leaf lends a crisp, dewy quality, while the bergamot imparts a bright, citrusy zest that dances lightly on the palate. Petitgrain brings an earthy, slightly woody aroma with its fresh, leafy undertones, and neroli adds a subtle, honeyed floral nuance that enriches the top notes with its sophisticated sweetness.

As you delve deeper into the heart of Iris Gris, the middle notes emerge with a sumptuous, velvety texture. Orris butter provides a creamy, powdery richness that envelops the senses in its soft, floral embrace, while iris absolute introduces an elegant, refined floral note that is both delicate and deeply resonant. 

Heliotrope adds a warm, almond-like sweetness, mingling harmoniously with the opulent Grasse jasmine absolute, which contributes a heady, intoxicating floral depth. Lilac brings a soft, powdery floral note, reminiscent of spring blooms, while Turkish rose absolute infuses a lush, velvety richness that contrasts beautifully with the airy sweetness of lily of the valley. 

Tuberose introduces a bold, creamy floral intensity, and carnation absolute adds a spicy, clove-like warmth. Violet rounds out the bouquet with a touch of soft, sweet floral undertones.

The base notes of Iris Gris offer a grounding conclusion to this complex fragrance. Sandalwood imparts a warm, creamy woodiness that anchors the scent with its smooth, resinous depth. Musk adds a sensual, animalistic nuance that envelops the skin in a subtle, seductive warmth. 

Cedar contributes a dry, crisp woodiness, while Bourbon vetiver enhances the base with its earthy, smoky richness. Finally, oakmoss absolute adds a touch of forest floor dampness and mossy green, rounding out the composition with a natural, grounding earthiness.

Overall, Iris Gris reveals itself as a beautifully balanced fragrance, combining fresh, fruity top notes with a lush, floral heart and a sophisticated, woodsy base. Each ingredient contributes to a harmonious blend that is both refreshing and deeply evocative.

I have a special appreciation for the bearded iris. My family has been planting these in their private gardens for decades. Family lore states that our original bearded iris bulbs came all the way from Sweden to America around the 1870s when members of my maternal grandmother brought them over and planted them in Minnesota. Members moved across the country and into Washington state, each member taking a few bulbs with them and transplanting them wherever they moved. My grandmother brought them to New Jersey and gave some to my mother, who ended up planting them and digging them back up everywhere she moved. These plants are still happily blooming in the garden of my parent's home.

Bottles:

Bottle:

photo by ebay seller duhautmarais

Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume Iris Gris, although discontinued at an uncertain date, was still available at high-end retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bullock's as late as 1961. This enduring presence in prestigious stores indicates that the fragrance maintained its allure and popularity well beyond its initial launch, continuing to attract discerning customers even after its official discontinuation. The fact that Iris Gris was featured in these renowned outlets highlights its status as a classic, sought-after scent, cherished for its sophisticated composition and lasting impact in the world of perfumery.

Iris Gris is revered by many perfumistas as the "holy grail" of fragrance, a coveted relic that continues to captivate the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts. Even bottles of this discontinued perfume, no matter how empty, command exorbitant prices whenever they appear on the market. This heightened demand is fueled by a diverse group of buyers.

Among these buyers are those who fondly remember wearing Iris Gris during the 1940s and 1950s, longing to reconnect with a scent that once defined their personal elegance. Their nostalgia drives them to seek out any remnants of this legendary perfume, willing to pay a premium for the chance to revisit a cherished olfactory memory.

In addition to these dedicated nostalgists, there are perfume aficionados and enthusiasts who, drawn by the passionate praise of perfume bloggers and historians, are eager to experience firsthand the excellence that makes Iris Gris so exceptional. Their fascination with the fragrance’s storied history and its unique composition fuels their quest to own a piece of its legendary allure.

Finally, some individuals are motivated by the desire to recreate the essence of Iris Gris themselves. For these aspiring perfumers and hobbyists, obtaining a bottle—whether full or empty—serves as an invaluable reference, allowing them to study and replicate the intricate blend of notes that define this iconic scent.

In all these cases, the allure of Iris Gris endures, symbolizing an unparalleled blend of historical significance, sensory elegance, and enduring appeal.

In 2010, Thierry Bellet of Legendary Fragrances undertook the ambitious project of recreating the legendary Iris Gris, a feat that delighted many perfume enthusiasts who had long yearned to experience this iconic scent once more. This revival not only included a faithful rendition of the original fragrance but also introduced an extrait version, Iris Gris X.O., in 2017. The extrait offered a more concentrated and opulent take on the classic, intensifying the rich, multifaceted profile that had originally captivated perfumistas.

Both versions were available for purchase on Legendary Fragrances' website, allowing aficionados to indulge in the refined beauty of Iris Gris and its luxurious extrait variant. However, it is with a sense of melancholy that I note the website seems to have gone defunct. This closure is particularly disheartening, as both incarnations of Iris Gris were, in my personal view, truly exceptional. Their availability offered a rare opportunity to relive a piece of perfume history, and the discontinuation of these offerings marks a significant loss to those who cherished their exquisite qualities.

• Top notes: peach, orris root, iris Pallida
• Middle notes: tuberose, lily of the valley, lilac, jasmine
• Base notes: cedar, musk, oakmoss

As you first encounter the top notes of Iris Gris, the scent opens with a captivating blend of freshness and complexity. The peach note, ripe and succulent, unfolds with a rich, juicy sweetness that immediately draws you in. Its vibrant fruitiness is complemented by the presence of orris root, which contributes a velvety, powdery texture. The orris root, with its subtle earthy nuances, adds a sophisticated softness that enhances the overall sweetness of the peach. Iris Pallida, with its delicate and refined floral character, introduces an elegant, slightly green facet that balances the sweetness with a hint of fresh, dewy sophistication.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, the middle notes reveal a bouquet of lush, floral richness. Tuberose emerges with its bold, creamy, and opulent aroma, infusing the fragrance with a luxurious intensity that is both captivating and sensual. Lily of the valley adds a light, airy freshness, evoking the delicate charm of spring blooms. Lilac follows with its soft, powdery sweetness, reminiscent of sun-drenched gardens, while jasmine imparts a deep, heady floral richness that envelops you in its warm embrace. Together, these notes create a harmonious and complex floral tapestry, blending elegance with a touch of exotic allure.

As the fragrance settles into its base notes, the scent transforms into a more grounded, sophisticated aroma. Cedar introduces a warm, dry woodiness that provides a solid, earthy foundation. Its crisp, slightly smoky edge adds depth and complexity. Musk follows with a sensual, animalistic warmth that subtly lingers on the skin, enhancing the fragrance's overall allure. Oakmoss contributes a rich, mossy green undertone, evoking the scent of a damp forest floor and adding a natural, grounding quality to the composition. The base notes combine to create a refined and enduring finish, leaving a lasting impression of understated elegance and timeless sophistication.

L'Iris de Fath, https://www.jacques-fath-parfums.com/product/liris-de-fath/