Chasuble by Jacques Fath c1945

Jacques Fath’s choice of the name "Chasuble" for his 1945 fragrance carries a profound and evocative significance. Derived from the Latin word "casula," meaning "little house" or "cape," the term "Chasuble" refers to a distinctive, flowing garment worn by clergy during religious services. In French, it denotes a vestment that envelops the wearer in an aura of solemnity and reverence. By selecting this name, Fath invokes imagery of timeless elegance and spiritual grace, suggesting that the perfume, like the garment, offers a protective and enveloping experience.

The name "Chasuble" evokes a sense of grandeur and mystique, conjuring images of elaborate ecclesiastical robes and the serene, contemplative atmosphere of sacred spaces. The association with such a garment might lead one to interpret the fragrance as possessing a profound depth and a sense of spiritual luxury. The scent itself, with its classification as a floral woody oriental, aligns with this imagery. It is described as heady and exotic, characterized by a rich, heavy blend dominated by incense musk and amber. This composition suggests a fragrance that envelops the wearer in an aura of opulence and mystery, much like the chasuble wraps the clergy in its sumptuous fabric.

Women of the 1940s encountering Chasuble would have found it distinct from other contemporary fragrances. The era's scent trends were often characterized by lighter, more floral compositions or fresh, citrusy notes reflecting a post-war sense of optimism and renewal. In contrast, Chasuble offered a heavier, more enigmatic profile with its bold use of incense, musk and amber, providing a striking departure from these trends. Its exotic and profound character would have appealed to those seeking a fragrance that conveyed sophistication and depth, aligning with the period’s growing fascination with more complex and layered scent experiences.

In the context of the post-war period, Chasuble stood out as a unique offering, reflecting the era's desire for both escapism and indulgence. Its floral woody oriental composition, rich in musky and amber notes, presented a dramatic contrast to the more conventional fragrances of the time, capturing the essence of an era that was beginning to embrace a more adventurous and opulent approach to scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody oriental fragrance for women. Described as heady, exotic. A heavy and mysterious perfume with a rich blend dominated by musk and amber.

• Top notes: bergamot, clove, cinnamon
• Middle notes: orris root, carnation, rose, jasmine, myrrh, frankincense, ylang ylang
• Base notes: sandalwood, musk, vanilla, ambergris, cedar, oakmoss, labdanum, vetiver, patchouli

Scent Profile:

As you first experience Chasuble, the top notes create an immediate, striking impression. Bergamot bursts forth with its crisp, citrusy freshness, offering a bright, invigorating start that quickly captures your attention. This initial zest is soon enveloped by the warm, spicy essence of clove, which adds a piquant, almost peppery edge. Cinnamon follows, contributing a sweet, aromatic warmth that infuses the fragrance with a sense of comforting richness and exotic allure.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes reveal a complex floral heart interwoven with resinous depth. The orris root introduces a luxurious, powdery softness, reminiscent of velvety, sun-dried petals. It provides a sophisticated, understated elegance that underpins the more vivid floral elements.

Carnation adds a spicy, clove-like nuance, enhancing the perfume’s exotic character. Rose imparts a classic, velvety floral richness, with its romantic and slightly fruity undertones weaving seamlessly into the heart of the fragrance. Jasmine emerges with its opulent, heady aroma, enveloping you in its intense, sensual embrace. 

The scent of myrrh brings a resinous, smoky depth, evoking ancient, sacred rituals. Frankincense adds a mystical, incense-like quality, elevating the fragrance to a spiritual, otherworldly plane. Ylang-ylang contributes a sweet, exotic floral note with creamy, slightly tropical undertones, rounding out the heart with a touch of lush, sensual elegance.

The base notes of Chasuble anchor the fragrance with a profound and enduring depth. Sandalwood offers a warm, creamy woodiness, its smooth, balsamic facets blending harmoniously with the other base elements. Musk infuses the perfume with an animalistic, sensual warmth that lingers on the skin, adding a rich, enduring presence. 

Vanilla introduces a sweet, gourmand note, softening the fragrance with its creamy, comforting qualities. Ambergris provides a luxurious, amber-like warmth, its complex, slightly marine undertones adding a touch of mystique. Cedar contributes a dry, woody element, enhancing the fragrance’s grounded, earthy qualities. 

Oakmoss adds a rich, mossy green depth, evoking the scent of a damp forest floor. Labdanum brings a resinous, smoky sweetness, reinforcing the fragrance's rich, mysterious character. Vetiver offers an earthy, woody foundation, with its deep, smoky notes adding a final layer of complexity. Patchouli adds a touch of spicy, woody earthiness, completing the fragrance with a rich, exotic edge that lingers elegantly.

Together, these ingredients create a fragrance that is both heady and exotic, enveloping the wearer in a heavy, mysterious blend dominated by musk and amber. Chasuble embodies a rich, luxurious experience, evoking images of opulent fabrics and ancient rites, making it a truly captivating scent.

Bottles:

Chasuble was offered exclusively in the purest form of fragrance, the parfum, reflecting its luxurious and sophisticated nature. This concentration ensured that every application delivered the full depth and richness of its complex composition. The parfum was available in four distinct sizes, catering to varying preferences and needs: a petite 1/7 oz for those seeking a more discreet indulgence, a 1/2 oz for moderate use, a 1 oz for a more generous supply, and a lavish 1 2/3 oz for the devoted enthusiast. Each size allowed the wearer to enjoy the fragrance's opulent blend of musk and amber, ensuring that Chasuble maintained its allure and presence in the realm of high-end perfumery. The availability of these sizes underscored the exclusivity of the perfume, making it a coveted treasure for those who appreciated its profound and enduring qualities.

Parfum flacon stands 5.70" tall. Photo from miressence

Chasuble parfum from a Jacques Fath coffret. Photo from worthpoint.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Chasuble was discontinued at an uncertain date, yet it remained available in select high-end stores as late as 1952. This continued presence on the market several years after its official discontinuation speaks to the fragrance's enduring allure and sophisticated reputation. Despite its withdrawal from active production, Chasuble was still cherished by those who sought its unique blend of opulence and mystery. Its continued availability during the early 1950s suggests that it held a special place in the hearts of discerning perfume enthusiasts, who valued its rich, exotic character and the timeless elegance it embodied. The fragrance's lasting appeal during this period highlights its exceptional quality and the significant impact it had on the perfume world, even as new trends began to emerge.