Jacques Fath’s choice of the name "Chasuble" for his 1945 fragrance carries a profound and evocative significance. Derived from the Latin word "casula," meaning "little house" or "cape," the term "Chasuble" refers to a distinctive, flowing garment worn by clergy during religious services. In French, it denotes a vestment that envelops the wearer in an aura of solemnity and reverence. By selecting this name, Fath invokes imagery of timeless elegance and spiritual grace, suggesting that the perfume, like the garment, offers a protective and enveloping experience.
The name "Chasuble" evokes a sense of grandeur and mystique, conjuring images of elaborate ecclesiastical robes and the serene, contemplative atmosphere of sacred spaces. The association with such a garment might lead one to interpret the fragrance as possessing a profound depth and a sense of spiritual luxury. The scent itself, with its classification as a floral woody oriental, aligns with this imagery. It is described as heady and exotic, characterized by a rich, heavy blend dominated by incense musk and amber. This composition suggests a fragrance that envelops the wearer in an aura of opulence and mystery, much like the chasuble wraps the clergy in its sumptuous fabric.
Women of the 1940s encountering Chasuble would have found it distinct from other contemporary fragrances. The era's scent trends were often characterized by lighter, more floral compositions or fresh, citrusy notes reflecting a post-war sense of optimism and renewal. In contrast, Chasuble offered a heavier, more enigmatic profile with its bold use of incense, musk and amber, providing a striking departure from these trends. Its exotic and profound character would have appealed to those seeking a fragrance that conveyed sophistication and depth, aligning with the period’s growing fascination with more complex and layered scent experiences.
In the context of the post-war period, Chasuble stood out as a unique offering, reflecting the era's desire for both escapism and indulgence. Its floral woody oriental composition, rich in musky and amber notes, presented a dramatic contrast to the more conventional fragrances of the time, capturing the essence of an era that was beginning to embrace a more adventurous and opulent approach to scent.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Italian neroli, Zanzibar clove, Ceylon cinnamon
- Middle notes: Florentine orris root, Indian carnation, Grasse rose absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, Sudanese myrrh, Omani frankincense, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Tunisian orange blossom
- Base notes: Canadian castoreum, Mysore sandalwood, Tibetan musk, Mexican vanilla, ambergris, Lebanese cedar, Tyrolean oakmoss, Maltese labdanum, Java vetiver, Indonesian patchouli, Siamese benzoin, Abyssinian civet
Scent Profile:
Chasuble by Jacques Fath is a stunning floral woody oriental fragrance that creates an aura of mystery and allure. The perfume's complexity is immediately apparent as it opens with an explosion of fresh and spicy elements, leading into a heart of deep florals and resins, and settling into a rich, musky, and amber-laden base. The perfume envelops the wearer in a heavy, exotic warmth, blending the natural beauty of rare ingredients with aromatic chemicals that enhance their depth and richness.
The opening of Chasuble is striking and dynamic, dominated by the crisp, clean burst of aldehydes, which add a soapy, slightly metallic brightness, creating an airy quality that lifts the composition. This initial spark quickly gives way to the fresh, zesty scent of Calabrian bergamot, prized for its bright, citrusy aroma with a uniquely aromatic, slightly bitter edge that sets the stage for the rest of the fragrance. The Calabrian bergamot, with its vivid, almost tangy scent, provides an invigorating and energizing start, lifting the opening notes and allowing the more exotic elements to come forward.
Italian neroli follows with its signature bitter-sweet, floral scent, offering an elegant and honeyed sweetness that softly contrasts the sharpness of the citrus. It adds a touch of warmth, while also bringing a crisp, green floral nuance to the perfume that enhances the other citrus notes. The addition of Zanzibar clove introduces a spicy, slightly warm and sweet scent with a rich, peppery depth, evoking the warm, sun-drenched spices of exotic lands. The Ceylon cinnamon reinforces this spice, adding a rich, sweet, and slightly woody warmth to the opening, with its natural intensity providing an intriguing heat that makes the fragrance feel comforting yet dynamic.
As Chasuble evolves, the heart of the perfume reveals an intricate blend of rich, earthy, and floral notes. The Florentine orris root lends a powdery, almost violet-like softness that adds an elegant, dry, and refined floral quality. Orris root, especially from the region of Florence, is revered for its slow extraction process, which imparts a complexity and depth that is unmatched by any other iris variety. It softens the heart of the fragrance, while its powdery elegance provides an almost vintage vibe. Indian carnation, known for its spicy, clove-like aroma with hints of pepper and sweet, musky floral notes, enhances the composition’s warmth, adding a sense of exotic richness.
The Grasse rose absolute, a prized ingredient from the heart of the perfume industry in southern France, contributes a deep, rich, and opulent rose scent, less sweet than many rose varieties, but richer and more velvety, with a slightly honeyed undertone that envelops the nose in its luxurious warmth. The Grasse jasmine absolute further enriches this floral complexity with its intoxicating, heady, and slightly indolic sweetness, creating an overwhelmingly beautiful floral scent that is both sensual and complex. The Sudanese myrrh introduces a resinous, slightly balsamic note, offering an aromatic warmth with a subtle medicinal, earthy richness.
This depth is balanced by the inclusion of Omani frankincense, which adds a slightly smoky, resinous element, evoking a sense of sacred, ancient rituals with its rich, amber-like warmth. Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, from the islands of the Comoros, brings a deep, exotic, and slightly fruity floral note, adding a creamy, rich sweetness that layers over the more grounded, resinous components. Lastly, Tunisian orange blossom contributes a soft, sweet floral nuance, evoking the delicate, sunny sweetness of orange groves.
The base of Chasuble is where the perfume's true depth and mystery lie. The musky, animalic scents dominate, creating an unforgettable richness that lingers on the skin. Canadian castoreum introduces a deep, leathery, and slightly animalic note, lending the fragrance an almost smoky, earthy warmth, while Mysore sandalwood, one of the finest sandalwood varieties, adds a creamy, velvety richness with its woody, slightly sweet aroma, which is deeply calming and sophisticated. The Tibetan musk enhances the base with its rich, warm, and animalic qualities, giving the perfume a full-bodied, sensual edge. Mexican vanilla provides a warm, sweet, and slightly spicy undertone that balances the heavier, more animalic notes, adding a comforting and rounded sweetness.
Ambergris, the oceanic treasure, brings a complex, slightly salty, and musky scent that adds both depth and longevity, creating a uniquely warm, animalic undertone that beautifully complements the rest of the base. Lebanese cedar brings a dry, aromatic, and woody note, which enhances the smoky elements of the fragrance while giving it a refined edge. The Tyrolean oakmoss, a moss often sourced from the mountains of the Alps, contributes a damp, earthy richness, with its dark, green, and slightly smoky aroma, adding a sense of mystery and depth. Maltese labdanum, another resin, brings its balsamic, amber-like warmth, deepening the base with its sweet, almost leathery undertones, making it feel both luxurious and ancient.
The earthy richness of Java vetiver adds a smoky, woody, and slightly bitter edge that provides an intriguing contrast to the other base notes. Indonesian patchouli, known for its deep, musky, and slightly sweet earthiness, complements the other woody notes while contributing a rich, grounding element to the fragrance. Siamese benzoin, with its warm, vanilla-like sweetness, softens the base, creating a resinous, sweet backdrop to the musky richness. Finally, Abyssinian civet adds an animalic, slightly musky richness, enhancing the depth and mystery of the fragrance with its pungent, dark, and leathery aroma.
The balance between these natural ingredients and their aromatic chemicals—such as the synthetic musk and aldehydes—creates a fragrance that is both timeless and mysterious. The aldehydes provide a luminous, sparkling top that contrasts with the deeper, more resinous, and musky notes that follow, while the synthetics like musk and ambergris ensure the fragrance’s longevity and complexity. Chasuble is a deeply sensual, heady perfume, filled with the richness of ancient resins, the warmth of spices, and the depth of woody, animalic notes that culminate in a fragrance of luxurious mystery and exotic allure.
Bottles:
Parfum flacon stands 5.70" tall. Photo from miressence
Chasuble parfum from a Jacques Fath coffret. Photo from worthpoint.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Chasuble was discontinued at an uncertain date, yet it remained available in select high-end stores as late as 1952. This continued presence on the market several years after its official discontinuation speaks to the fragrance's enduring allure and sophisticated reputation. Despite its withdrawal from active production, Chasuble was still cherished by those who sought its unique blend of opulence and mystery. Its continued availability during the early 1950s suggests that it held a special place in the hearts of discerning perfume enthusiasts, who valued its rich, exotic character and the timeless elegance it embodied. The fragrance's lasting appeal during this period highlights its exceptional quality and the significant impact it had on the perfume world, even as new trends began to emerge.
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