Canasta by Jacques Fath c1950

Canasta by Jacques Fath, introduced in 1950, is a fragrance that not only captivated the senses but also embraced the cultural zeitgeist of its time. The name "Canasta" refers to a popular card game that was immensely fashionable in the 1950s. Originating from the Spanish word for "basket," the game involves melding cards into sets and was renowned for its strategic depth and social appeal. By naming his fragrance "Canasta," Jacques Fath evoked the excitement and sophistication associated with the game, suggesting a sense of playfulness and intrigue.

The term "Canasta" conjures images of elegant card games in glamorous social settings, where the clinking of ice in glasses and the murmur of conversation blend with the thrill of strategic play. The fragrance itself mirrors this imagery, with its fruity aromatic notes evoking the vibrant energy of the card game while its chypre base reflects a more refined and classic sensibility.

In scent, "Canasta" presents a rich tapestry of aromas that align with the era’s preference for complex, layered fragrances. It opens with a bright burst of fruity notes, immediately capturing attention with a sweet and invigorating aroma. This lively introduction transitions into an aromatic heart, offering a blend of lush, green, and herbaceous elements. The base reveals a warm, woodsy sweetness, grounding the fragrance in a rich and enduring finish.

The 1950s fragrance landscape was dominated by chypre and floral compositions, with a rising interest in bold and sophisticated blends. In this context, "Canasta" stood out for its unique combination of fruity and aromatic elements paired with a sweet woodsy base, marking a departure from the more floral or heavily citrus-oriented fragrances of the time. It perfectly captured the essence of a post-war era seeking both innovation and elegance in its perfumery, while also nodding to the playful social trends of the period. For women of the time, "Canasta" was not just a fragrance but an experience that mirrored the dynamic and stylish spirit of the decade.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity aromatic chypre fragrance for women. It begins on a high key but subdues to a soft, sweet, woodsy base. Bright and spirited, Canasta was made up of 52 individual essences.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange, peach, apricot, raspberry, galbanum, basil
• Middle notes: lavender, geranium, coriander, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, labdanum, heliotrope, tuberose, carnation, nutmeg, cherry liqueur and plum
• Base notes: musk, castoreum, tonka bean, cedar, opoponax, benzoin, sandalwood, suede, oakmoss, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver, ambergris 

Femme, 1950:

"Fifty-two different essences are said to be included in the composition of Canasta, the latest perfume from Jacques Fath. Such a complicated dosage does not make it easy to discern the dominant note of this new very Couture scent. Besides, what's the point of trying to recognize it? Isn't it enough to use it with pleasure and success? Canasta adds to the new color the appeal of an ultra-modern, warm and persistent aroma."

Combat, 1952:

"Fifty-two - it takes fifty-two weeks to make a year and God knows it flies by! It takes seventy-two cards to seduce luck and nothing is more fickle!...It took fifty-two different essences for Jacques Fath to create an atmosphere, an elite atmosphere, of true refinement, of subtlety. elegance. This complex is called "Canasta" and it is a brilliant, modern, unexpected perfume whose style flourishes in the revelation of particularly new scents. The favor he found, from the outset, with the most difficult women, the most picky about the quality of the perfumes they use, is sufficient proof that with "Canasta" Jacques Fath plays and wins."

Scent Profile:

Canasta, a distinguished fragrance from Jacques Fath, is a masterful composition of 52 essences, blending fruity, aromatic, and chypre elements into a unique olfactory experience. As you delve into this perfume, each ingredient unfolds its story, creating a rich and nuanced scent profile.

The top notes of Canasta greet you with a vibrant burst of freshness. Aldehydes introduce a sparkling, soapy clarity, enveloping you in a clean, airy sensation. This is quickly followed by the zesty brightness of bergamot and the sweet, tangy notes of orange, which infuse the fragrance with a lively citrus aroma. 

Peach and apricot add a luscious, juicy sweetness, reminiscent of sun-ripened fruit. Raspberry contributes a touch of tartness, enhancing the overall fruitiness. The green, slightly resinous aroma of galbanum introduces a crisp, herbaceous quality, while basil adds an aromatic, slightly spicy note, bringing a touch of herbaceous sophistication.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its complex floral and aromatic blend. Lavender offers a soothing, herbaceous aroma with hints of sweetness, perfectly complemented by the rosy, green notes of geranium. Coriander adds a warm, spicy nuance, while the floral richness of jasmine and rose creates a lush, romantic bouquet. 

Ylang ylang infuses the heart with its exotic, sweet floral scent, and heliotrope introduces a soft, powdery sweetness. Tuberose and carnation provide a bold, spicy floral contrast, while cherry liqueur and plum contribute a rich, fruity depth, blending seamlessly with the other heart notes.

In the base, Canasta settles into a warm, sensual finish. Musk and castoreum create an animalic, intimate quality, grounding the fragrance with their deep, complex aromas. Tonka bean and vanilla add a creamy, sweet richness, while cedarwood and sandalwood offer a warm, woody foundation.

 Opoponax and benzoin contribute a balsamic, resinous sweetness, enhancing the fragrance’s depth. Suede introduces a soft, tactile leather note, and oakmoss and patchouli provide a classic chypre structure with their earthy, mossy qualities. Finally, vetiver and ambergris add a sophisticated, smoky warmth, rounding out the fragrance with their rich, textured finish.

Canasta’s intricate blend of fruity, floral, and woody notes creates a perfume that is both complex and enduring, capturing the essence of an era while offering a timeless olfactory experience.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1950, Canasta by Jacques Fath exemplified the opulence and sophistication of mid-20th century perfumery. This elegant fragrance, classified as a fruity aromatic chypre with a sweet woodsy base, captures the essence of its era with a blend of rich and inviting notes.

The perfume was meticulously crafted to reflect the prevailing trends of the time, which favored complex, layered compositions. Its top notes featured a vibrant mix of citrus fruits like bergamot, lemon, and orange, offering a fresh and invigorating introduction. The fruity nuances of peach, apricot, and raspberry added a juicy sweetness, while green notes such as galbanum introduced a crisp, herbaceous edge. Aldehydes lent a sparkling, clean quality to the initial scent, enhancing the overall brightness of the fragrance.

As the scent evolved, its heart revealed a lush bouquet of floral notes. Jasmine, rose, and ylang ylang created a rich and sophisticated floral layer, while aromatic herbs like lavender, geranium, and coriander added depth and intrigue. Spicy elements such as carnation and nutmeg contributed a warm, spicy undertone, enriching the fragrance’s complexity.

The base of Canasta grounded the perfume in a warm, sensual finish. Woody notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, and vetiver provided a solid, enduring foundation. Sweet elements like vanilla, tonka bean, and benzoin enhanced the warmth and sweetness, while mossy and resinous notes of oakmoss and labdanum gave it a classic chypre structure. Animalic notes of musk added a final touch of sensuality and depth.

Despite its success, Canasta was eventually discontinued, with the exact date remaining unknown. However, it was still available on the market as late as 1972, a testament to its lasting appeal. This perfume remains a cherished example of Jacques Fath’s ability to create fragrances that were both sophisticated and timeless, capturing the essence of an era in every meticulously crafted note.